Showing posts with label tourism. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tourism. Show all posts

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Martín Alhaja, more legend than truth

This simple shepherd saved the day on two important occasions in medieval Spain. Maybe.


The Gate of Aljaraz (The Sheep Gate) in Cuenca, also known as the Puerta de San Juan for a nearby church. Photo by Sue Burke.

+

Legend says a shepherd named Martín Alhaja helped Christian troops defeat the Moors in Cuenca in 1177 during the Reconquest. Then, in 1212 in Andalusia, he help the combined Christian armies find a mountain pass so they could fight in the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa.

Like so many Spanish legends, the story is better than the facts – which makes it worth telling.

Cuenca is a city in Castilla-La Mancha in central Spain located on a spur of rocky cliffs between two rivers, the Júcar and Huécar. The gorges make the city breathtaking, a World Heritage Site popular with tourists. When the Moors arrived there in 714, there was no city yet, but they recognized that the site would be strategic and impenetrable with the addition of walls at the east and west end, so they built a fortress there. Soon a prosperous city grew up on top of those cliffs.

Starting in the late 1000s, the Reconquest was being fought in earnest in La Mancha, and the city passed from Moorish to Christian hands several times. Finally in 1177, King Alfonso VIII of Castile laid siege to the city.

Here’s where Martín Alhaja comes in. This shepherd had received a visitation from the Virgin Mary telling him he would play an important part in the victory for the Christians. So one day, September 21 to be exact, while he was outside the city tending his flock, he met some Christian soldiers and told them of an easy way to enter the city in secret: kill some sheep, cover themselves with the skins, and accompany him back into the city. The guard at the Gate of Aljaraz was blind and trusted Martín, so the knights could sneak past. They did, and the city fell.

Well, Cuenca did fall to King Alfonso’s troops on September 21, 1177. Martín’s story appeared in a historical account several centuries later, but in following centuries less credulous historians rejected it and showed that the original source, supposedly from the 13th century, was a fabrication. In fact, the episode seemed suspiciously similar to an episode in Homer’s Odyssey involving Odysseus and the giant cyclops Polyphemus.

But that was not the end of Martín’s legendary adventures, although this time the shepherd might have instead been an apparition of Madrid’s patron saint, Isidro (Saint Isidore the Laborer), in disguise.

Here’s the situation: in July of 1212, King Alfonso VIII was again on the march against the Moors, this time united with other Spanish Christian kings. However, their troops were stopped at the mountain pass of La Losa in southeastern Spain, held by Moorish guards. Then a shepherd appeared as a “godsend,” according to King Alfonso’s letter to the Pope, written after the battle. This shepherd showed them a different, safe pass through the Sierra Morena. The troops marched on and won the decisive Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa.

Starting  in the 16th century, some chronicles began to name this shepherd as Martin Alhaja and later as Saint Isidore, and they added other details, including the miraculous appearances of El Cid, Santiago (St. James the Apostle, who killed a lot of Moors during the Reconquest), various angels, and Count Fernán González, in the battle.

In this case, there may have been a shepherd who helped the troops find their way, but it seems  it was our friend Martín.

By the way, as far as I know, “Alhaja” is not used as a last name in Christian Spain. It comes from an Arabic word meaning “jewel” or “outstanding person.” Clearly, Martín Alhaja is outstanding – a gem of a story to tell friends over a bottle of wine at a cliffside café gazing out over a stunning sunset view of Cuenca.

+

Thursday, July 1, 2010

The authentic Segovia Castle

The tourist guides are wrong, because what you see is what it really looked like centuries ago.

Modern Segovia Castle. Photo by Katheline Vernati-Finn.

+

"Although there has been a fortress on this site since the Middle Ages, the present castle is mostly a fanciful reconstruction following a fire in 1862." That's what the Dorling Kindersley Eyewitness Guide to Spain says. Most tourist guides say the same thing. They're wrong.

The present-day alcázar (a castle or palace used as a royal residence) is as authentic as it gets. Here's the real story, which I've learned from Spanish history books and repeated, attentive visits:

The Romans, in addition to building Segovia's magnificent aqueduct, apparently had a fortress at the west end of Segovia, but nothing really remains of that. The site is on the rocky outcrop over two rivers that stands like the stony prow of a ship. The defensive advantages of the spot are obvious. The Moors probably had something there, too.

The first mention of the alcázar comes in 1122, after the reconquest of Segovia by King Alfonso VI, and it appears to have involved a wooden stockade. During the reign of Alfonso VIII (1155-1214), some of the oldest stone parts of the castle were built, such as the Old Castle Hall, along with the western tower and its Arms Hall.

King Alfonso X (1252-1284) rebuilt part of the castle when it collapsed; castle maintenance is always an issue, as any chatelain will tell you. In 1412, Queen Catherine of Lancaster had more rooms constructed on the north side, including the Galley Chamber. Additions and alterations continued during the 1400s, notably the construction of the impressive gothic Tower of Juan II on the east side, built over an existing tower.

This was the castle where Isabel I was staying when she was declared Queen in 1474.

King Felipe II (1556-1598) married his fourth wife, Anna of Austria, in the Chapel. He ordered the last of the major renovations, including the Renaissance-style Arms Courtyard and slate-shingled spires just like those of Central European castles — lovely, but so unlike typical Spanish castles that modern tourist guidebook writers can't make sense of them.

Felipe II, of course, moved the royal court permanently to Madrid. The castle eventually found use a prison, hosting various notable inmates. In 1762 it became the Royal Artillery School. Then a three-day fire started on March 6, 1862, in the Queen's Chamber, next to the Cord Room, and destroyed many roofs and damaged the structure.

The Artillery School, which has a museum in the castle, describes the fire in an exhibit. A couple of students set the fire, hoping to get out of exams. They were executed. But the pre-conflagration photos show a building almost identical to the tourist attraction we now know and love.

Architect Antonio Bermejo y Arteaga directed a reconstruction from 1882 to 1896. Felipe II's fancy plaster-work, including the king-by-king frieze in the Hall of the Monarchs, was reproduced. Some original elements were saved or rebuilt. Others, such as the gilt mudejar ceiling in the Throne Room, were taken from medieval buildings and houses in the area and match the originals.

How authentic is it? Quite authentic. It's really what it looked like 400 years ago. Like any old building, it's had its maintenance problems and disasters over the centuries, but it's remained a working building. The conveniences of plumbing, glass windows, and electric lights have been added, along with historically harmonious works of art and antiques to delight visitors.

And that's as good as it gets. Enjoy.

+
The official website:
http://www.alcazardesegovia.com/
+

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Sleep like a king

Castles, palaces, citadels, and luxury hotels await travelers from around the world.

[The fortress in Alarcón, in western Castilla-La Mancha, was built in the 8th century and has rooms for up to 28 guests, including a room at the top of the tower, along with a fine restaurant, bar, and garden.]

+

Spain is full of historic buildings and gorgeous scenery. In 1928, King Alfonso XIII decided to take advantage of this by creating an agency to set up hotels in these locations to promote tourism.

It turned out to be a good idea. Paradores Nacionales de Turismo now offers close to 100 hotels, each unique and memorable, with outstanding restaurants. Many offer the chance to relive history.

A good way to start planning your adventure is by searching the Paradores website, which comes in Spanish, English, French, German, and Catalan. Chose your style: castle, citadel, convent, monastery, historic building, modern building, palace, or regional location in splendid settings. The site is media-heavy, with photos, videos, maps, interactive features, helpful links, histories, and everything else they can think of to tempt you to make a reservation.

Some paradores have "unique rooms" which may have special historical interest, extraordinary amenities, and a few are even allegedly haunted. (Friendly ghosts, of course.) Often paradores have play areas for children. Scroll to the bottom of the page for links to make reservations from overseas.

The room rates aren't always cheap, of course, but the special promotions can be affordable. In any case, with all the information online, it's easy to imagine a visit, and dreaming is free.

Portugal has a similar system of "pousadas." Visit http://www.pousadas.pt. I recommend the castle at Óbidos, where I have stayed.
+